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Plugging holes in frame

Last post 07-17-2008, 1:01 PM by allforone. 9 replies.
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  •  06-03-2008, 11:34 AM 1901

    Plugging holes in frame

    I am trying to lighten my bike as much as possible, and would like to remove the water bottle cage bolts that are useless ( I use a camelback), as well as the rack bolts. It probably doesnt add up to much, but...

    So, the question is, do any of you have creative suggestions for plugging the holes? I suppose I could just put a shot of silicone or glue, or a piece of tape. But maybe there is a better option. 

  •  06-03-2008, 11:43 AM 1902 in reply to 1901

    Re: Plugging holes in frame

    I would see if I could get some nylon grub screws of the right thread to go in there or as you said, Silicon

     but I think you are going a little over the top to save such little weight

    but then what do I know
     

    mamos 


    carpe scrotum

    If you didn't build it, you don't own it.
  •  06-03-2008, 4:14 PM 1905 in reply to 1902

    Re: Plugging holes in frame

    This is true. I am probably being neurotic about weight. I guess its more about purity, ridding the frame of extraneous stuff. Now if I can just get the chain length right I can lose that pesky tensioner...;)

  •  06-05-2008, 9:43 AM 1911 in reply to 1905

    Re: Plugging holes in frame

    Weld.  Grind.
  •  06-06-2008, 5:14 AM 1919 in reply to 1902

    Re: Plugging holes in frame

    Just use aluminim a/k bolts (easy to get) with the threads trimmed down to the minimum necessary. You won't get lighter than that - and they come in pretty anodised colours. The proper way to remove the bosses is to braze (or silver solder) a short piece of 2BA or M5 steel thread in, and then carefully file flush to the tube so that the bosses disappear altogether. That gives a really 'clean' look to a frame. However, you'll need to be highly skilled at filing, and you'll then need a respray. Obviously were talking steel frames here.

    A standard pair of stainless bolts is always best. You've already saved a couple of pounds by not running gears, so I don't see the point of causing yourself problems and expense in order to save half a dozen grams or less.

    Don't use silicone in the threads, as it's not easy to remove again if you ever need to. It resists bead blasting and chemical strippers, and therefore has to be burned away prior to any future respray.


    "Gears are like eyes or testicles. Having more than one is an unnecessary luxury." Elvis A. Presley
  •  06-06-2008, 5:46 AM 1920 in reply to 1919

    Re: Plugging holes in frame

    Oh, and you'll need to keep that tensioner, even if you do find a 'magic numbers' chain length solution, as chains get longer with use.

    Do you run suspension forks? Bin those off for some Project 2's (or Pace/On-One/White Brothers/Bontrager carbon rigids if your budget allows) and you'll potentially save a good chunk of weight there. Tyres are the best (and perhaps easiest and most cost-effective) place to make a weight saving, as you can immediately feel the difference, and lighter tyres bring definite performance advantages. You can't beat reducing the rotating mass of a wheel at it's outermost circumference. I have a bike with Conti 'Supersonic' tyres and Conti 'Light' tubes fitted at present. If feels really light and lively, even though it's not my lightest bike. And, I've had less punctures than I'd been expecting in thorny Hampshire.

    My Cnut 853 (see photo gallery) weighs less than 19 lbs. I reckon that's about the limit for a wholly reliable steel-framed mountain bike. There's not really anything on it that I can get any lighter - and still use it regularly over decent distances and mixed terrain without the fear of anything failing. Remember, lightest is not always bestest!


    "Gears are like eyes or testicles. Having more than one is an unnecessary luxury." Elvis A. Presley
  •  06-06-2008, 6:51 AM 1923 in reply to 1920

    Re: Plugging holes in frame

    Yeah, its neurotic and probably a waste of time and too much effort to do it right. It was just a question to while away the day. As for my bike, Im running an aluminum frame and a CroMo Surly fork. Ditched the suspension when I first converted. It badly needs a lighter wheelset and tires, but its not in the budget right now. It'll be the next thing to switch out. I just put on a 28inch Sunline V-One riserbar, and its amazing. I was running a 24 inch bar before, and the difference is very noticeable. More leverage when climbing, more control and stability. Loving my bike right now! And I convinced the wife to convert to SS as well, so that makes me happy too ;) Her new parts are in the mail and I have a new project ;)
  •  06-06-2008, 11:36 AM 1926 in reply to 1923

    Re: Plugging holes in frame

    It's always good to have an excuse for a new project - especially if that excuse also irons your shirts and keeps the house tidy. I'm building one for my daughter, but she never cleans up!
    "Gears are like eyes or testicles. Having more than one is an unnecessary luxury." Elvis A. Presley
  •  07-15-2008, 7:07 AM 2048 in reply to 1926

    Re: Plugging holes in frame

    Talking to Ben from trice the other day and they have nylon grub screws to blank off unwanted frame holes

     

    mamos 


    carpe scrotum

    If you didn't build it, you don't own it.
  •  07-17-2008, 1:01 PM 2051 in reply to 1901

    Re: Plugging holes in frame

    Dude... I know you this, but a good crap in the morning can make all that weight difference Stick out tongue

    Once, I used Silicon on the water bottle fittings, and it worked very well. It has thus far lasted for three years of hard weather riding. This was on my cross bike, where I did not like bolts stabing me when I throw it over my shoulder.

    Cheers,

    B.C


    -BC-
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